Ragù di cervo is a long simmered meat sauce, a ragù di carne made with venison. Before you say, “oh, deer!” and dismiss the thought of eating it, consider that the meat isn’t fatty at all, and the long simmering of it makes the most delightful aroma. It will seduce you, in other words, if you let it. The picture was taken at the Trattoria della Pesa in Varese. Also note that when the deer population starts to grow enough to start eating commercial crops, the government hands out more licenses to hunt them. So, you, gentle diner, are bringing the population back in balance and saving agricultural with each savory bite.
The dish may be made with a variety of long pastas. Homemade egg pastas like pappardelle, tagliatelle or fettuccine work best. You’ll occasionally find Ragù di cervo ladled over polenta.
We found the dish in the Lombardia region near the border of Switzerland, but you’ll find it across the north and especially in the Trentino, where you might find it with whole wheat pasta.